Sautéed Chicken Livers with Onions and Artichokes from Liguria, Italy
Sautéed chicken livers with onions is an Italian classic, a dish straight from the pages of la cucina povera. Slow-cooked, deep brown caramelized onions pair incredibly well with rich, quickly sautéed chicken livers. It is not, however, the most visually appetizing dish – brown on brown – and that’s why it’s la cucina povera.
There are several variations on chicken livers and onions. At work, we deglaze the pan with vermouth, purée the lot, chill it, fold in whipped cream, and serve it as a crostini topping. That was the first time that I cooked chicken livers, having grown up in a non-offal-eating American household.
This version, which I found in A Ligurian Kitchen, a collection of recipes from the coastal region of Northwest Italy, adds braised artichokes to the caramelized onions, deglazes the pan with white wine, and garnishes with chopped parsley. The tender, floral artichokes balance out the richness of the livers, as well as the sweetness of the onions.
As Liguria is one of Italy’s biggest olive-oil-producing regions, a drizzle of extra-virgin is the best way to finish this dish.
Slow cooking onions for deep, caramelized flavor
Heat & Knives
The Recipe
Source: A Ligurian Kitchen: Recipes And Tales from the Italian Riviera
3 small artichokes
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 large onions, thinly sliced
2 cups homemade or low-sodium canned chicken broth
salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon chopped parsley, plus more for garnish
2 ounces ham, cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 ½ pounds chicken livers, cut into 2 x 1/2-inch strips
¼ cup dry white wine
Clean the artichokes by cutting the tough stems and ½ inch to 1 inch off the top, and by removing the outer, tough leaves until you reach the tender, light green leaves near the center. Cut each artichoke in half lengthwise and remove the hairy white core inside of each. Place them immediately in a bowl of water with 2 tablespoons of the lemon juice or else they’ll turn very dark. Cut each half lengthwise into eight sections (cut them into four sections if the artichokes are very small). Leave the slices in the acidulated water until you’re ready to cook them.
Heat 4 tablespoons of the olive oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onions and sauté, stirring frequently, for about 20 minutes adding 1 cup of the broth in 1-tablespoon increments. You want the onions browned but not burnt. Add the broth whenever the onions start sticking to the pan (each addition should make a sizzling noise.) If they start burning, turn down the heat.
Drain the artichokes and pat them dry with a paper towel. Add them to the onions with a generous pinch of salt, a few grinds of pepper, 1 cup of broth, and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium-low, add the parsley and ham, cover partially, and cook for about 15 minutes, or until the artichokes are tender.
Meanwhile, in a different skillet big enough to hold all the livers (12 to 14 inches wide), heat the remaining tablespoon of olive oil over medium-high heat. Season the chicken livers generously with salt and pepper. When the oil is hot, add the livers and cook them for about 5 minutes over medium-high, making sure to brown them on all sides. Transfer them to a dish near the stove.
When the artichokes are done cooking, turn off the heat and add the reserved livers. With the wine, deglaze the pan used to cook the livers over medium-high heat and reduce the liquid by half, about 2 minutes. Pour the wine sauce in with the livers and artichokes, add the remaining 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Garnish with fresh parsley and serve immediately.