Heat & Knives

The Recipe

The Lever House Cookbook, by Dan Silverman

First read the main recipe:

2 tablespoons Spice Mix (recipe follows)
4 filleted skate wings (5 to 7 ounces each)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Roasted Mushrooms (recipe follows)
Fingerling Potatoes (recipe follows)
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 cup Balsamic-Mushroom Vinaigrette (recipe follows)
Watercress, stems trimmed, for garnish

Sprinkle the fragrant spice mix on both sides of the skate wings.

Heat a large sauté pan over medium heat and add the butter. When the butter foams, toss in the roasted mushrooms, along with their liquid, and the fingerling potatoes. Sauté for 2 to 3 minutes to combine; season with a generous amount of salt and pepper. Cover to keep warm.

Heat a large sauté pan over medium heat and coat with the oil. When the oil gets hazy, lay the seasoned skate wings in the pan and sear for 2 minutes; do this in batches to avoid overcrowding the pan. Turn over the fish with a spatula and cook the other side for about 2 more minutes.

To serve, lay 1 skate wing on each of 4 plates. In the crescent of the fanned wing, spoon a small pile of the mushrooms and potatoes. Drizzle the skate and vegetables with about 1/4 cup of the balsamic-mushroom vinaigrette and garnish with watercress.

Now the vinaigrette:

Makes about 1 1/2 cups

1/4 cup Mushroom Jus (recipe follows)
1/4 cup good-quality balsamic vinegar, such as 12-year-old
6 cloves Roasted Garlic Confit (recipe follows)
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup grapeseed oil

Combine in a blender the mushroom jus, vinegar, roasted garlic, and a generous pinch of salt and pepper. Puree at high speed until well mixed. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in the oil to emulsify; the vinaigrette will be fairly thick. Taste for seasoning, spoon the balsamic-mushroom vinaigrette into a plastic squeeze bottle for serving, and reserve at room temperature. Keep any leftover vinaigrette covered in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

For the Mushroom Jus:

Makes 2 cups

3 pounds button mushrooms, stems included, wiped of grit
1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1 bay leaf

Put the mushrooms, peppercorns, and bay leaf in a large stockpot, pour in enough water to generously cover the mushrooms by 2 inches. Bring the stock to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and gently simmer, uncovered, for 2 to 3 hours. The stock should have a pleasant mushroom flavor and have the color of very weak coffee.

Strain the mushroom jus through a fine strainer into another pot to remove the solids, pressing with the back of a wooden spoon to extract as much flavor as possible from the mushrooms. Bring the stock to a boil, and then simmer; reduce by three-quarters to concentrate and enhance the earthy mushroom aroma. If not using immediately, cover and refrigerate for up to 1 week or store in the freezer for a month.

For the Roasted Garlic Confit:

1 cup peeled garlic cloves, store-bought
canola oil, to cover the garlic (about 2 cups)

Preheat the oven to 325 F.

Put the garlic cloves in a single layer in a small baking pan. Pour in enough oil to cover the garlic completely. Cover the pan tightly with aluminum foil and bake for 30 minutes or until the cloves are soft and sort of confit. If they’re not quite done after 30 minutes, continue to cook, checking at 5-minute intervals, until the garlic is creamy and completely tender. Be sure that the garlic does not brown, or worse, burn. Cool the roasted garlic in the oil before straining.

Roasted Mushrooms:

1 1/2 pounds oyster and shiitake mushrooms, wiped of grit
1/2 Spanish onion, finely diced
1 garlic clove
1 fresh thyme sprig
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 cup vegetable stock
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 325 F.

Put the mushrooms in a large mixing bowl and combine with the onion, garlic, thyme, and oil. Toss to evenly distribute the ingredients. Spread the mushroom mixture in a roasting pan and pour in the stock; season well with salt and pepper. Cover the pan with aluminum foil and roast for 30 to 40 minutes, until the mushrooms are tender.

Fingerling Potatoes

2 teaspoons sea salt
1 cup dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
2 bay leaves
1/2 pound fingerling potatoes, washed and sliced into 1/4-inch-thick coins

Bring a large pot of water to a boil; add the salt, wine, and bay leaves. Carefully put in the potatoes and simmer for 5 to 8 minutes, until they’re cooked through but still retain their shape. Drain and serve. [Ice bath the potatoes, to avoid overcooking them, since you won't be serving them right away.]

For the Spice Mix:

1 tablespoon juniper berries
1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns
2 tablespoons pink peppercorns
2 tablespoons coriander seeds

Combine the juniper berries, black and pink peppercorns, and coriander seeds in a spice mill or clean coffee grinder; buzz until the spices are a coarse powder. Keep in an airtight container in the cupboard for up to 1 month.