Braised Pork Belly with Soubise (French Onion Sauce)
Pork belly is a rich, flavorful, inexpensive delicacy that can be prepared in many ways and take on many flavors. In this recipe from the old Lever House Restaurant in New York, now Casa Lever, the pork belly is first brined, then braised, and finally roasted. The brining seasons the meat and flavors it with various aromatics, the braising cooks the meat slowly so it’s perfectly tender, and the roast gives it a quick sear to crisp up a bit.
The sauce for the pork belly is a buttery, sweet-sour soubise. It’s made by gently cooking minced onions in wine and vinegar for three hours, then blending them with butter to make a smooth emulsion. The pickled taste from the vinegar cuts the richness of the fatty pork and rounds out the dish nicely.
For garnish, I made a small salad of parsley and sliced fennel, tossed in olive oil and lemon juice with a little salt and pepper. The salad adds a note of freshness, and also cleans the palate of the rich flavors.
Heat & Knives
The Recipe
Source: The Lever House Cookbook, by Dan Silverman
For the Brine:
1 quart water
1/4 cup sugar
2 1/2 tablespoons sea salt
2 bay leaves
5 juniper berries, smashed
3 garlic cloves, smashed
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 pound pork belly, without rind
generous pinch of kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the Braise:
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 onion, coarsely chopped
1 celery stalk, coarsely chopped
1 carrot, coarsely chopped
1/2 fennel bulb, coarsely chopped
3 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
2 fresh thyme sprigs
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1 cup dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
1 quart Brown Veal Stock
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup Soubise (recipe follows), warmed
2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives, for garnish
Prepare the Brine:
In a large container, combine the water, sugar, sea salt, bay leaves, juniper, garlic, and red pepper flakes. Give it a stir to dissolve the sugar and salt. Submerge the pork belly in the brine, cover, and put it in the refrigerator for 8 hours or up to overnight to tenderize the meat.
Remove the pork belly from the brine and pat dry with paper towels. Sprinkle both sides of the meat with a fair amount of salt and pepper. Preheat the oven to 325 F.
Braise the Pork
Place a cast-iron or deep ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat and coat with the oil. When the oil gets hazy, add the pork belly and sear for 3 minutes on each side, until the meat is brown and the fat begins to render. Remove the seared pork belly to a side plate and tip out all but 2 tablespoons of the rendered fat. Reduce the heat to medium and add the mirepoix to the pan: the onion, celery, carrot, fennel, and garlic; toss in the thyme, bay leaves, and peppercorns. Sweat the vegetables in the pork fat, cook and stir often, until they soften, not brown, about 15 minutes.
Add the wine and continue to cook for 5 minutes, until the liquid is reduced to 1/4 cup and looks syrupy. Turn the heat up to high, add the veal stock, and bring to a boil, skimming any impurities that may rise to the surface.
Return the pork belly to the pan; the liquid should just barely cover the meat. Cover the pan tightly with foil and transfer to the hot oven to braise for 2 to 2 1/2 hours, or until the pork is very tender and a fork slides into the meat without any resistance. Allow the pork belly to cool in the braising liquid, preferably overnight, covered in the refrigerator.
The next day:
Remove the pork belly from the braising liquid, scraping away all solids that stick to the meat.
Preheat the oven to 425 F and put a dry cast-iron or ovenproof skillet in the oven to preheat at the same time.
Using a sharp knife, divide the pork into 4 equal portions (it is easier to cut when it’s cool). Season the pieces of pork belly lightly with salt and pepper, and put them in a single layer in the preheated pan. Roast for 10 minutes, until the meat is tender, but not falling apart and the fat is crispy.
To serve, ladle 1/4 cup of the soubise sauce on each of 4 plates, put a piece of the pork belly in the center, and shower with chopped chives.
Heat & Knives
Soubise
Makes about 2 cups
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 1/2 pounds white onions, finely diced
1 lemon thyme sprig
1 bay leaf
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3/4 cup dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
1/2 cup white wine vinegar
1 cup vegetable or chicken stock, as needed
1/4 cup unsalted butter, cold and cut into chunks
Place a saucepan over medium heat and film with the oil. When the oil is hazy, add the onions, thyme, and bay leaf; season with salt and pepper. Cook and stir for 5 minutes, until fragrant, but do not let them brown.
Add the wine and vinegar, bring to a simmer, then cover and reduce the heat to low. Simmer gently for 3 hours, checking periodically to make sure the liquid has not completely evaporated and that the onions are soupy; add stock a little at a time to keep the onions moist if needed.
Remove the thyme sprig and bay leaf, and while the onions are still hot, transfer to a blender. Pulse the soft onions until slightly chunky. Add the butter in increments and continue to pulse until the butter melts into the hot onions and the sauce reduces to a puree. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. The sauce may be made a day in advance and gently reheated on the stovetop before serving.


















